Last night I booked the bus to Torres del Paine, because I was heading into
off season they wanted an extra 10000 CLP to guarantee a seat back to Puerto
Natales, as they would have to specifically send a vehicle down ie. normally
10000 for return trip, now it's each way.
In the scheme of things the price is not too bad considering the distance of
the park at circa $40AUD, but I needn't of worried as there were plenty of
buses on the return and plenty of people around.
The bus was a small mini van accommodating around 8 passengers, but for this
journey it was just me and a young American girl from California called Sara.
She was doing the rounds of South America and has travelled Pakistan and many
other places but has to finish up soon due to a commitment to a Phd in
etymology. She ended up travelling with me along the route for a couple of
days. Her gear wasn't quite up to scratch with cotton pants and I was a bit
concerned about the small size of her pack, but somehow the weather was not
too unkind and she bunked in a couple of hostels on the trek when things were
bad.
Along the way we say guanaco, rhea and sheep and the odd condor. The landscape
was, though somewhat barren, quite interesting as well, though it was a a bit
wet for taking decent photos.
We left town at 730am and arrived at 930am. At Laguna Amarga we registered our
intents and paid 8000clp to get in. Luckily I got in today as the price
dropped dramatically with off-season. I was originally going to do the
Circuit, but the weather forecast for the week wasn't appealing and I felt it
safer to do the W trek instead. Apparently, though unconfirmed , the rangers
probably would not have let be do it anyway - though I would imagine their
decision would be based on the preparedness, as many people are simply
inadequately equipped.
Here is a map courtesy
http://www.torres-del-paine.org/map-tdp.html . The W track is quite distinct in its namesake; it takes in the
plum bits of what Torres del Paine national park has to offer.
After paying the dues we hopped on a bus for a connection to the catamaran on
Lago Pehoe. We were dropped off, the drivers popped into a building and left
us out in the open with no explanation of what to do next. Buildings around -
no shelter for the public in the ever increasing rain - these are private for
the workers, boat moored but no explanation of what itinerary or process. We
discovered we had to wait until 1200pm. As it was getting colder and wetter we
managed to shelter in a derelict shed until this time - impending doom - I
hope not ! There was supposed to be a pleasant site - mirador Cuernos that one
could walk to to while the time, however the blast of cold rain prevented
that.
The boat cost 11000 clp, which was a bit expensive as such a boat trip would
be, it might have been swallowed better if the weather afforded good viewing,
still the fuel, boat and wages do have to be paid regardless of numbers. There
was just us two tourists and a bunch of workers, we got tea, coffee or cocoa
and biscuits as well. I might have preferred to walk from the Administration
Postada Sedrrano, but all I would have got was a good drenching.
We landed at 1230. There were plenty of fellow tourists who wanted to make
their exit. A few thought we were crazy to attempt the walk to Glacier Grey,
saying it was flooded out. I looked at their gear - plastic ponchos and jeans
and thought no wonder they were miserable !
The trek time was 3 1/2 hours on the map given to us by the park authority -
no need to buy maps this map was perfectly adequate for navigation. It turns
out that the time was spot on.
Not much in the way of views of the Glacier and mountains due to the rain, but
the foliage was shimmering a brilliant gold with the autumn colour changes.
Along the way I also spotted a woodpecker busy sculpting a tree. Sometimes the
wind and rain was that hard that all I could do was look at the ground 1 to
metres ahead.
Upon arrival at refugio Grey, it was still raining so I elected not to camp.
The refugio was only 10000 clp including a meal and the site was dirty with
the rain so that decision was not hard to make. This was the last night for
the refugio so it was offered at considerable discount.
At the refugio others of French, Brazil, USA and of course me the Australian
were staying. I was the only one who could not speak Spanish, however it was
fun with conversation revolving in all tongues and often people forgetting
whether they were speaking Spanish, Portuguese, French or English. I went to
bed at 10oopm leaving them to it, and of course awoke at 4:00am due to jetlag
still affecting me.
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