Maramapata and Choquequirao: Day 2 - Trek Choquequirao to Machu
Choquequirao is a very pretty set of ruins and it has a great aspect, set on a
ridge that captures the sun efficiently. This real estate would be worth a
fortune in the Western world with the divine views from all dwellings.
What the ! It is 4:00am, some arrieros and support staff elected to get up and
chat loudly in the room next door. Dogs were also barking. If you ever do this
trek, do not camp at Playa Rosalina, it is better to camp earlier or press on
to the next site at Santa Rosa. As tempting as the showers and amenities are;
a good nights sleep is much more important. The hard floor of the shelter or
rocky ground was uncomfortable and the staff & dogs were noisy - much akin
to a bunch of loud discordant bells.
At 6:00 breakfast was ready and 6:30am we were off. Upon crossing the river on
a recently built bridge were were greeted by a long ascent taking 4 hours to
complete our journey. From 1550m we ascended to 2850m at Marampata.
Along the way we stopped briefly at Santa Rosa. Ucco drank his regular chicha
and we caucasians stuck to the Coke/Fanta, though I wish I chose the chicha
afterwards as I reckon its carbohydrate resource would last longer than the
aforementioned commercial drinks. Coke and Fanta, and 'Inca Kola' are the
ubiquitous commercial offerings. There are little shops sprinkled all along
this track, locals vying for that bit of income from the increasing numbers of
trekkers. They are situated nicely at locations just where it is desirable to
rest and stop.
We readied our camp and had an early lunch of soup as I am going to travel
further to the ruins of Choquequirao with Ucco our arriero. Meanwhile Ben and
Chris, the two English guys who were feeling rather punished with the
gruelling walk as they were carrying back packs. We tried to organise mules
for them but were not successful. I was feeling it without packs, so it must
of have been a real test of grit with them.
Choquequirao was a further 8km set at much the same elevation at its zenith it
extends well down the sides of the ridge. The agriculture terraces are visible
early, so a payment booth is built roughly 4km away from the ruins. No price
is on the tickets so I was warned by Jan to be aware of the price of the
tickets - I left it up to Ucco do the dealing for me.
Choquequirao is very pretty. The ruins are set on nicely maintained lawns and
have a great aspect being on a ridge. It captures the sun, no doubt keeping
the occupants nice and warm throughout the year. There is an irrigation
channel fed from the peaks to provide water to the dwellings and farm areas.
Walking round the ruins is physically demanding, especially visiting the
llamas images. They are on steeply sloped terraces. The walls are
adorned with white rock pictures of llamas. Running up the sides of the llama
terraces are stairs. These are so steep and long, that I did not dare to
follow them all the way up in case I overbalanced. It was a more prudent
decision use the tourist path.
It was a struggle to get back to camp which of course was 8km away. At one
point my right foot refused to budge and I stood in a transfixed state. n
official came from the other direction and started querying me. I snapped out
of my trance and said all was OK and trudged on. 14 hours awake, probably 10
hours of walking no wonder I was stuffed.
Camp was in view, I crumpled on to a wooden bench and talked to the others in
my supine state. Jan gave me a tipple of the local moonshine, which is very
potent and fired me up sufficient to allow food consumption and crawl into bed
for a very sound night's sleep.
I give thanks to Ucco, my arriero and companion for the trip to Choquequirao.
He was at the camp way before me, he cooked dinner and tended to the
mules. This guy is tough. Although he would have pitched my tent,
I asked him not to as previous experience with other people pitching my tent
lead to a broken pole.
Wow, what a day.
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