Totora to Aguas Calientes – Day 6: Trek Choquequirao to Machu
Today's walk was a mixture of pleasant sites, not so pleasant sites and
adrenaline pumping adventure.
3:00am, who invented this hour ? a Quechuan lady was chopping wood. This is
our last day of trekking, it comes too soon, especially when its 3:00am ! The
walk needed to be early anyway, with a wake call at 5:00am as we had to be in
La Playa by 2:30pm to catch our taxi to meet the train at the Hydro Electric
station. We had breakfast of porridge at 5:30am inside the house
eating area, along with the guinea pigs who gladly chomped on my reviled
hardened bread buns.
At about 6:30am we were off. We say our goodbyes. I liked our hosts, but I was
glad to leave this camp site as it was a bit grungy.
The start of the walk was on a choppy hardened track punctuated with embedded
rocks through the pastures. We headed into the sun and soon found
ourselves on a precipitous track sidling the valley walls, all the more scary
because landslips were abound and many parts of the track were cut into fresh
landslip. The most significant part of this walk are the river
crossings, land slip devastation and heading into town.
This scene however is brightened with the floral displays of nature’s garden
as we descend into the lower valley areas. I am always thrilled to see a
hummingbird. The early morning has its merits.
At just before 8:00am we found the next campsite and greeted Chris & Ben
our English friends. This was a much more pleasant location than Totora. Chris
mentioned that they had a beer last night and the temptation got the better of
me, so Jan and I shared our first beer on the trip at 8:00am on this very
sunny morning - how decadent.
We said goodbye to Chris and Ben as they heading out via the Salcantay track.
I arranged to meet them in Cusco to exchange photos and stories.
Onwards, the track moves on through precarious new cuts till it reaches a new
road. The much publicised landslips have been rectified with a new road
somehow bulldozed in on the side of this huge mountainous valley. I can see
that it might be needed, but what an ugly scar and I reckon it's going to
precipitate even more landslideupon the next heavy rainfall, as there is very
little earth stabilisation. Modern Peruvians need to learn from and implement
the Incan engineering technology.
Fortunately our time on the new road was short and we were able to get back on
the track after the destroyed (much anticipated) hot spring.
The track after the destroyed spring led to our terminus at the ugly shanty
like town of La Playa. Litter, dogs, shacks, Coca Cola and Fanta everywhere.
Some of the other trekkers had the great privilege to stay one more night in
this less than wonderful place. Still, the beer was refreshing.
The taxi-shuttle seemed to take an eternity to leave La Playa, no urgency
here, passengers loaded but no driver. Eventually we left but had to go to
Santa Teresa first then to the Hydro-Electric station.
Landslide devastation: everyone had to cross the river via a cable car hauled
by several men. A big delay, there is a queue, and it is slowly
diminishing. It takes us an hour before we get to cross the river. Time
is 3pm and Jan and I get across the river at 4pm. The last train of the day to
Aguas Calientes leaves at 4:45pm.
That suspended trolley hasn't dropped anyone yet, so it's not going to be our
turn either ! No choice, no time for fear anyway.
The pressure is on to get to the train. I for the first time on this trek am
carrying my pack, it is heavy. Jan is carrying an awkward to hold sports bag
on his shoulders. We are pessimistic about our chances of reaching the train.
"Hurry, hurry... The train is leaving in 9 minutes." was the translation from
an excited employee. A sprint in video slow motion. Strewth - an option -
which way to the station ? Must be the road to left. Horn blows. Wait !!! A
ticket please. Don't worry, get on the train. Not in that carriage, it is for
the Peruvians. Stuart:"Jan you have my ticket" - Jan: "I need the ticket, just
get on the carriage !"
I am glad the cardiac surgeon cleared me before this holiday, but I swear the ticker was on crisis overload these last 9 minutes. Still it saved 12 km of hike along the rail track in the dark.
Hey... How are you! Being a gentleman, I let two Canadian ladies Julia and
Candace, who accompanied us in the taxi-shuttle onto the cable cart before us.
They got on the train of course. Here I am sitting opposite them nearly dying.
RULE of SURVIVAL: reincarnate as a woman – am sure most ladies would say the
reverse. I am sure there was a level of discomfort for the ladies, I was in
good spirit however and was amused by how it all turned out. If we did
miss the train it wouldn’t matter as it just adds to the tale I am telling
now.
Tickets please... Urm, my ticket is in the other carriage. He had me going for a second - a knowing smile form the inspector kindly handed one over. Aussies are not the only ones who know how to joke at another’s expense !
Tickets please... Urm, my ticket is in the other carriage. He had me going for a second - a knowing smile form the inspector kindly handed one over. Aussies are not the only ones who know how to joke at another’s expense !
Aguas Calientes. Well I am impressed. The guidebooks indicate that it is a hodge podge of a town, but to me it is an exciting place and one of the cleaner towns in Peru. Many pedestrian only areas give freedom to relax and wander.
After such a close call with the wild river crossing and sprint to the train,
such events needs a debrief, so dinner was arranged with our two new
Canadian friends; Candace who was a
professional Artist
travelling with her niece Julia who is currently studying therapy care. We ate
at a restaurant called Indio Feliz: the food was excellent. Our dinner guests
and now new found friends were great fun. We had a good time chatting over the
events of the day and our various pursuits.
Sleep and power for my camera! Reasonable accommodation was found at the Pirwa Hostel, we were very lucky to get it as a lot of places were full. (located at Tupac Yupanqui Street 103). It amazes me that for the low dollars these places charge they all provide breakfast. We got a room with en-suite for about $30 US, in the very 'expensive' Peruvian town of Aguas Calientes.
Sleep and power for my camera! Reasonable accommodation was found at the Pirwa Hostel, we were very lucky to get it as a lot of places were full. (located at Tupac Yupanqui Street 103). It amazes me that for the low dollars these places charge they all provide breakfast. We got a room with en-suite for about $30 US, in the very 'expensive' Peruvian town of Aguas Calientes.
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